1. The spectacular geography all along the coastline
2. The setting of Riomaggiore, and the panoramic views it offers, are unbelievable (coastline, houses, cliffs, and the pastel color scheme of the village itself, etc.)
3. Good that we didn’t have to worry about driving, and especially parking
4. The glittering colors of the sea
5. Manarola, because it seemed a bit more laid back than the other villages
6. The harbor district of Vernazza, which could have come straight from a fairy tale, and its fishing-village atmosphere (if you can imagine away the hordes of noisy American tourists)
7. The little gothic church of San Pietro in Corniglia
8. Swimming in the sea in a little bay near Riomaggiore
9. They’ve largely managed to avoid overdevelopment and environmental degradation, and by Italian standards the preservation of ancient monuments has been outstanding
10. Each of the five villages has a totally unique atmosphere, but at the same time there is a certain feeling that unites the whole of Cinque Terre (maybe Monterosso is a bit outside it)
1. In Riomaggiore (especially) the tourist crowds are overwhelming – there’s nothing very romantic about standing in a crowd
2. Schedule constraints on trains and shipping mean a lot of waiting
3. A lot of steps to climb in the heat
4. Some restaurants have been spoiled by the tourist crowds, and don’t really try to offer good quality or value for money. Staff are often tense and overworked
5. Weekends are best avoided, as the crowds become atrocious
6. People stepping on each other’s heels on the trail between Monterosso and Vernazza
7. The run-down conditions of the stations (stinky bathrooms)
8. The locals are not the champions of Italian hospitalityW
9. The proportion of tourist junk in the shops
10. Should have visited 10-15 years ago, when it wasn’t so popular
11. Monterosso is the most crowded of the five in summer

Cinque Terre - Manarola - tourist crowd - m.s. photo