Mauritius

Transport

 The main international airport is on the south-east side of the island.

There is left-hand traffic in Mauritius.

The roads are of good quality, but many of them are narrow or winding. The locals (especially the taxi drivers) drive in a wild way; adventurous overtaking is common. Only self-confident and experienced drivers should be undertaking a car rental.

Renting a car makes it more flexible to plan the discovery of the island. However, if you stay 7-9 days in Mauritius, maybe it is enough to rent a car for two or three days only.  After all, there should be enough time for beach days.

The fearsome or/and comfortable tourists should better hire a taxi driver for excursion days. If you have smart bargaining skills, you may even make a deal, which is only slightly more expensive than renting a car. There are also guided bus tours, usually in English or French.

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"Be careful when walking across the road because there is no pedestrian priority! The principle of 'safety first' is applicable here because it's easy to stop and wait for any vehicles on the road to pass by before crossing. The police are pretty laid-back, and it's rare to get a fine for speeding. Nor is it a problem if you drive after drinking a small amount of alcohol (1-2 beers or spritzers at lunch). Buy a used bike and sell it when you leave; that way, the cost can come out at zero! Sometimes it's worth renting a car for longer trips.
Busing should not be missed either, since they are a very cheap and interesting experience. They travel fast and go everywhere." (2016)

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“They drive on the left in Mauritius, so continental European or North American drivers will have to adapt to this if they are thinking of renting a car. The roads are of good quality, but many of them have a narrow or winding section and crazy overtaking is common – the adventurous driving style of the locals is the biggest source of risk, and so only those who drive both confidently and skillfully should rent a car. On the other hand, renting a car can make planning your trip much more flexible. For a stay of 7-9 days, it is enough to rent a car for two or three days. For the more cautious, a better option may be to hire a taxi driver. With clever bargaining, this may work out only slightly more expensive than renting a car. There are also discounted bus tours – usually with guides who speak English or French.
The long-distance buses in Mauritius are used by very few tourists. Generally, the ones who do have been to the island several times, and dare to take the very basic, very slow-moving buses. It is useful to know, however, that there are reliable and modern express buses that run once an hour, starting from the capital and running until 10 pm, between Port Louis-Moka-Phoenix-Vacoas-Quatre Bornes and Floreale-Curepippe. In the villages, express bus services only stop once or twice a day in the morning.

To give you an idea of the slowness of ordinary long-distance buses, it’s possible to travel a given distance by car or express bus in 15 minutes, while with a normal long-distance bus the same journey takes 50 minutes or even an hour! The advantage of simple bus services, however, is that they depart every 15-20 minutes to or from the capital, and also stop in the villages. The fare is also cheap, but the downside is that even with the slow pace, the aggressive driving style of the bus drivers is stomach-churning.

It’s useful to know that in Mauritius, all you need to do to catch a bus is flag it down with a confident wave. When you get on, it is advisable to clarify with the driver where you want to go and where the bus is going. Timetables are absolutely impossible to find. The only clue is that the name of the terminal is written on the front of the bus. It is not easy for the tourists to orient themselves at bus stops.

There are also plenty of places in Mauritius that are not easy to get to by bus, meaning you may need a rental car or a taxi. There is a huge oversupply of taxis, which is why taxi drivers are very pushy. They also try to wring every penny from the few tourists who find them. Before getting into a taxi, the driver has to clarify the price of the route and in many cases, you can haggle down to 10-15% of the price he first quoted. There are no meters on this island’s taxis!!!
If guests staying at hotels in the northern part of Mauritius want to visit the southern part of the island, they should calculate at least an hour and a half to two hours on the way there and, don’t forget, the same on the way back. While road users on the island may prefer an adventurous driving style, that doesn’t mean you can get from one place to another quickly.”

Accomodation

Considerations about the choice of accommodation

When planning a trip to Mauritius, it’s best to decide in advance what your preference is: an extravagant, multi-service hotel or a human-scale, family-run hotel, which of course offers a smaller range of services. The latter is now favored as boutique hotels. Of course, we can find very cozy small hotels and boarding houses, where if we’re lucky the owner is diligent in looking after guests.
Hotels in Mauritius typically charge high prices. There are two main reasons for this. One is that have to ship almost everything to the island, which is a costly procedure, and these costs are passed on to hotel guests. Another is that in the last two decades, Mauritius has consistently positioned itself as a premium destination in world tourism, trying to keep backpackers and lower-middle-class travelers away with high prices. It used to face less competition in this regard, but these days the Maldives and Madagascar have begun to compete with it in the Indian Ocean region. For now, it is staying ahead thanks to better infrastructure and Western European marketing. Western Europeans are glad that Mauritius has not yet been flooded by Russians. Anyway, most hotel guests have a distinctly cultured behavior, and you aren’t likely to be troubled by drunk, boorish groups of British tourists either.
In Mauritius, lower-end, 2-3-star hotels usually have some minor issues: there is usually a distinct lack of customer focus, or else the condition of the rooms leaves something to be desired, or the staff is slow and often unskilled. Staff laziness can be an issue in better hotels, too. The explanation for the lack of enthusiasm of the service staff may lie in the fact that the cleaning lady’s monthly salary is half the amount that a luxury hotel guest pays for a room for one night.
Still, it’s possible to find some real gems in the 3-star category, and there are also great special offers for 4-star hotels. 4-star hotels are, it has to be said, a bit of a lottery when it comes to the price/value ratio.
It is important to point out that the vast majority of hotels in Mauritius do not have a private beach. This is because, according to local law, the coast all around the island is public property. This is why you can take long walks of several kilometers along the beach.
Mauritius is a tropical island, so travelers should make their peace with the fact that small, harmless insects, ants, lizards, etc. may appear in the room. Geckos are friendly lizards, between two and ten centimeters in length, that can climb using their suction cup soles. They are useful roommates, as mosquitoes provide much of their food. Their appearance is not a sign of a lack of cleaning in a hotel. The architectural design of local hotels, which is attractive, is usually such that the buildings have a lot of open-air space. Outdoor meals can also be disturbed by flies and birds hunting for crumbs.

Which side of the island has the most going for it?
Before traveling, it is worth deciding which coast of Mauritius you want to look for a hotel on. There is no part of the coast that has only advantages, nor is there one that has only disadvantages. In my opinion, the hotels on the west and north coasts are most worthwhile. The west coast may be romantic, but the north coast has more entertainment, more life! Many say that the most beautiful beaches are on the west coast. The east coast is quite wild, with its own pros and cons.

West Coast
More and more people are choosing the west coast of Mauritius, which is about 50 kilometers long. The informed swear that the most pleasant part of the island is in the catchment area of the central section of the west coast, around Flic-en-Flac and Wolmer. The climate is drier and warmer than on other coasts of the island because the weather is less windy. On the west coast, Flic-en-Flac and its catchment area have become increasingly popular in recent years. It even has a Spar supermarket. The great advantage of the west coast is the proximity of the capital, Port Louis, and the big city full of markets and entertainment venues, Quatre Bornes. It is easy to mingle with the locals on the west coast. It’s easy to find restaurants where locals, for example, dine. This is also the disadvantage of the west coast: for example, there are a lot of local families on the beaches on weekends and so not much peace because of the many children.
Nor is it an advantage of the west coast that there are more than a few rocky, coral beaches where bathing can be risky. Fortunately, there are always good beaches 5-10 minutes away by car. It is worth asking (utikritika@utikritika.hu) to look into it: what is the situation in the specific place in terms of the nature of the beach? The west coast has more of an exciting, beautiful coast in terms of the natural environment than the north. The sand on the beaches is dazzlingly white. According to others, the most beautiful natural beauties of the island are on the southwest coast, between Tamarin and Baie du Cap. There, however, the choice of accommodation is much more limited. The transfer time between West Coast hotels and the airport is usually 45-50 minutes.

North Coast
The northern coast of Mauritius has the most popular (and crowded) beaches. The atmosphere could hardly be described as idyllic, due to the many speedboats, water skis, etc. The beach sand is also less than ideal in a few places: it’s coral sand, but not so powder-fine as in other places, and a bit gravelly. The volcanic rock formations are attractive. You can also find some particularly beautiful stretches of coast here, for example in the area of Pereybéré. From here, catamaran trips depart for a dreamlike little island nearby. In the north, the Trou aux Biches coastline is ideal for water sports lovers, while the more significant Mont Choisy is calmer.
Both areas are close to Grand Baie, which is a very bustling place by local standards. Outside of the capital, this is perhaps the place with the most shopping opportunities (e.g. Sunset Boulevard shopping street, Super-U large supermarket). Oddly, the shops close at half-past five in the afternoon, just when holidaymakers are strolling in the vicinity (there are few properly constructed sidewalks!). Fortunately, the bars and restaurants are open. The descriptions of Grand Baie in brochures as ‘the Saint Tropez of Mauritius’ are an exaggeration. It is enough to wander into a side street and you will quickly find yourself among dilapidated, collapsing shacks. Of course, this is also interesting, but the milieu is certainly not elegant. The larger streets are relatively clean. Most hotels are in the northern part of Mauritius, so of course, most tourist service providers are based there too, including the larger nightlife venues. The average transfer time between the hotels on the north coast and the airport (non-stops) is 1-1.5 hours, although the distance is only 75 kilometers. Luckily, you can see beautiful, interesting landscapes during the transfer.

"I think it's better to choose a hotel on the north coast because the sky is cloudier in the south and it rains more often. I was on the island in December and stayed in the north, where I got away with just minor showers." (Balázs, 2017)

The East and South Coasts
“On the east coast of Mauritius, the hotels are built in isolated, beautiful natural locations. There is little accommodation there, but we can find very good stretches of beach for diving (for example at the beaches near Poste de Flacq). The seawater on this side of Mauritius is not as beautiful as on the west and north coasts. Many places on the east coast stink, thanks to the stone-age sewage disposal systems. The east coast is more deserted, and further away from the island’s main road. Not many hotels have been built on the south coast. It is the windiest part of the island, which is a great advantage in the heat. This is the best place for surfing and sailing, as the waves are often huge. Excursions to the eastern and southern parts of the island are worthwhile. Getting around this part by bus can be complicated, so you will probably need a rental car, or else to rent a taxi for a day.”

Public safety

The authorities built up an extensive camera surveillance system all around the island, especially in tourism areas. All tourism accommodation is equipped either with alarm systems and CCTV Surveillance.

Possession of drugs is punishable by up to 45 years in prison.

Health

The sun rays are intense, tricky, and many vacationers don't properly sense that because of the powerful winds. The use of potent sunscreens is a must, as sunburn is a high risk. Wear a hat to protect your head from the blazing sun.

History

Mauritius has had a twisted history. Colonial powers always tried to control the island for its important strategic location.

The island was unknown and uninhabited for a long time. It was discovered in 1500 and named as Dina Arabi on the map.

Around 1511, a Portuguese sailor, Domingo Fernandez Pereira, was the first European to step on the island. The Mascareignes archipelago (consisting of Mauritius, Rodrigues and, Reunion) got its name from another Portuguese sailor, Don Pedro Mascarenhas. However, the Portuguese did not settle here. For them, the island was used as a food pick-up base only. Thinking that they would have food each time returning from India, they left livestock (like pigs, goats, donkeys) to be reproduced. But along with these, accidentally rats landed too. That caused great damage as the rats ate the dodo bird's eggs, and this endemic, flightless bird extinct forever.

The island got its name after the Dutch royal prince, Maurits van Nassau. It was not until the 17th century that the active exploitation of the island started.  Then sugarcane was planted, and slaves were brought to the plantations from Indonesia and nearby Madagascar.

The Dutch did not prove to be persistent colonizers and left the island, thus becoming an occasional stop for pirates, who have happened along.

In the early 18th century, the French easily grabbed Mauritius for themselves. They were not so interested in the island itself; instead, they were motivated to control Europe and the Far East's trade routes in this given area. (Ships from Europe had traveled to Asia bypassing Africa at the time).

At that time, the French still felt potent to compete with the British in conquering the Indian Ocean region and parts of Asia. They used the island as a naval base, and parallel began to build some settlements.

After the fall of Napoleon, the British quickly occupied the island. Surprisingly, the British colonial administration left the French settlers in complete peace,  as they dominated the economy, mainly through their plantations.
In 1835, the British banned slavery. As a result, life and the population's composition significantly changed, as until then, there were five times as many slaves as free citizens.

Not as slaves, thousands of wageworkers came from India and South East Asia. The Indians took over most of the commercial sector.  

By the 20th century, the educated local Indians claimed political rights. After World War II, many Chinese fled to Mauritius. The ethnic composition of the island nation has become increasingly diverse.

The country became independent in 1968 in a relatively peaceful process. At the beginning of the sixties, the British granted independence to most of their African colonies anyway. After a while, they felt to do the same with Mauritius.

Nowadays

Mauritius is a stable country, both politically and economically. 

With its per capita exceeding 11,000 USD, Mauritius is one of the wealthiest countries. Corruption is at a low level.

The main pillars of the Mauritian economy are: tourism, textile, and sugar industries.

Drug use has been on the rise in Mauritius in recent years.

People

“On the island of Mauritius, the locals are typically friendly, tolerant, and laid-back. The population is mixed in terms of dress, habits, and religion.

In Mauritius, public safety is good: street vendors are not pushy, and there are few beggars. The country may seem poor by European standards, but it’s rich compared to its miserably poor African neighbors.

In Mauritius, tourists who speak either English or French will find it easiest to communicate with the locals. The people of Mauritius are typically friendly and helpful towards foreign tourists. White Europeans are highly respected. The locals, starting from the premise that anyone who comes here on holiday from Europe is sure to be wealthy, and thus successful, judge that they deserve respect and discreet curiosity.

Soon after arrival, the foreign visitor sees the vibrant nature, and the excitingly diverse culture and religion of the local population. Mauritius is, demographically speaking, a nation of immigrants. As this small island is home to a wide variety of nationalities and backgrounds, all the world’s major religions can be found here.
Essentially, there are no natives or even many really black African locals. The majority of the population is made up of Indians, so-called Creoles, and Chinese. Seventy percent of Mauritians are Hindus. They also keep track of who comes from which part of India. Muslims from India are often considered separately.

Indians are the main players in the economy and in trade, and they largely determine the life of the country. In the field of marriages, the caste system still endures. Among Hindus, every shade of brown is found, the darkest shade is found in every stratum of the people here, just as some have very fair skin, with blue or green eyes, and almost look white.

The Chinese also play a significant role in the economy. There are many shops and cafes with Chinese proprietors, and quite a few Chinese are among the country's wealthiest people.

The proportion of whites in the permanent population is only a few percent, and they are mostly of French descent. The Creoles are of African descent. Although they are black-skinned, their noses, mouths, and hair look different from typical Sub-Saharan Africans. The Creoles are almost all Catholic.

Mauritius's government has always emphasized ensuring that national unity appears strong, despite ethnic differences and diversity. Racial, ethnic, religious differences are vigorously papered over. There is, however, a certain informal ghettoization along racial and religious lines. It is present in the selection of spouses, in business associations, and social life. Still, people really strive to ensure that these factors do not hinder harmonious coexistence on the island, and in everyday life, ethnic and religious lines are somewhat blurred.

The islanders speak at least two languages. They speak English well but use their mother tongue when communicating with one another at home or on the street. They also speak Creole, which is based on French.

The huge difference compared to the countries of the African continent is most spectacularly shown by the fact that in Mauritius, 85% of the population can read and write.”

Tourist etiquette

“Superficially, foreign visitors often consider the locals to be quite standoffish. Well, this is not their impression of the hawkers trying to sell their wares on the beach, and in general, those living directly from the money tourists spend.

Outside the hotel, especially in tourist areas, foreigners are advised to show some restraint in dressing, as the local culture is quite conservative, although not to the extent customary in Arab countries. In Mauritius, topless sunbathing on public beaches is not appropriate (though it may be ok in hotel areas).

It causes tension with the locals when a foreign visitor makes a noise and behaves conspicuously. Due to the general respect for guests, the locals will generally forebear to react to small etiquette breaches from foreigners.

The locals are religious, even if they follow different faiths. It is important to respect their customs and beliefs, just as they respect ours.”

La Vanille Crocodile Park

"A park in the south of Mauritius, which was independently recommended to us several times. You can ride giant turtles, and apparently, this is fun not only for humans but also for animals. Really interesting with kids. It's best to put on anti-mosquito cream before starting out. If I were you, though, I'd give the restaurant a miss: expensive and not too good. The park is located in the rainier part of the island.

"Parking is free. Admission was 490 rupees for adults when we visited. The crocs were fed at 11.30 am, right at the entrance. As we took the ticket, they told us when it would be if we didn't want to miss it.
And then we looked at the big fruit-eating bats ... hm. Whenever one of them flew over my head, I screamed as though it was the end of the world. :)
Then came the Seychelles giant tortoises. They told us at the entrance that they bite, and not a little nibble, either – I mean serious bites. Be careful: they can bite faces, shoulders, fingers. Don't lean too close!
 We bought the tortoises a branch to eat. There's also a breeding center here, where there are now 700 smaller tortoises ... then they brought them fruit ...
 The big ones are huge :) the biggest is 275 kg :)
 They also stink like pigs and burp and grunt ... and roar :D
 The place smells like a pigsty :))" (2017)